Earthquake aftershocks & aftermath...

Let them roll, then get to work

Dealing with the recent devastation in Cuba

Sometimes you need to let your eyes leak. You need to let the tears roll down your cheeks like rain on a windowpane. It’s a way of cleansing and letting go. And then, once you’ve had a good cry, you can get to work.
 
Cuba has been breaking my heart for years, one little piece at a time. The decent, hard-working people there deserve more than they’ve been getting; they deserve a chance to flourish. They’ve endured – and are enduring – so much.
 
My heart, especially, resides with the people of the Granma province, the island’s southern soul. The latest, greatest difficulty they’ve faced is a series of earthquakes that ripped through the region on Nov. 8, just two days after I returned from my most recent trip to that beloved nook. The two largest of the quakes measured 6.0 and 6.8 on the Richter scale, which are classified as “strong” in magnitude (the range is 6.0-6.9). To put it into perspective, there are typically only 100-150 “strong” earthquakes globally each year. Thankfully, the duration was brief – about 7 seconds for the strongest one. Since then, however, aftershocks have continued to echo through the earth, causing both buildings and people to shiver.
 
The district suffered quakes in the past but, this time, the repeated shaking was simply too much for some structures. At least one apartment building and a school in Pilón have been condemned, numerous houses collapsed and others are unsafe for occupation. In the village of Marea del Portillo, quite a few houses are now uninhabitable and other buildings are still being assessed. I think it’s safe to assume that any community in this mountainous area has sustained damage. Many homes have new cracks in the walls, new leaks in the roof and doors or windows that no longer function properly.
 
Large military-style tents have been set up in Pilón, mainly for the families that can no longer live in their apartments. Naturally, a lot of folks are bunking in with friends or relatives as a temporary measure. Government officials have visited the area to make their typical promises. I don’t believe a timeline has been set for anything. I want to believe things will happen soon. I want to envision bags of cement, rebar and concrete blocks being shipped to the area, even as I type. I want to hope help will come – more than just a few sagging tents.
 
How are the people coping? They are dancing in the streets! No, I’m not kidding or making a bad joke. Some of them are, quite literally, singing and dancing… and putting on clown costumes and telling stories and reading poetry. That’s their job, in fact. Part of the Cuban crisis management protocol, it seems, is to entertain and distract those afflicted by catastrophe, particularly the children. “Distractertainment” (I made up that word; feel free to borrow it!) is a powerful and highly effective tool that is easily misused but, in this case, I think it’s helpful, especially for the little ones who are quite understandably fearful.
 
Once everyone’s had a bit of fun, however, it will be time to get to work. Clean-up efforts have already begun, of course, as have informal, hands-on support efforts. One Canadian man is there now, doing what he can to provide food and supplies for homeless families. Known to some as “Budgie,” he's a long-time visitor to the area. He likes to migrate there for the winter, so he was already ensconced in Marea del Portillo when the earthquakes struck. His response? He went shopping! Then, he went shopping again, and again, and again. He started taking people to the nearest store and letting them pick out the food and other supplies they needed.
 
Other Canadians wanted to help their Cuban friends, so Budgie offered to be the conduit. He invited people to send e-transfers, which he can access in Cuba and use at the local government-run MLC stores, where plastic money is required. He asked me to post a note on Facebook, which I did. He doesn’t know I’ll be sending out an email about it too! I hope he’s not overwhelmed.
 
Helping people can be challenging, I’ve learned; triage is the most difficult part. But, I’m planning on returning to that fray in early December. I hope to be able to transport things from Canada that are hard to get in Cuba, as I did in October. On that trip, my focus was health and medical supplies. This time, although I will take more acetaminophen and such vital items, I also want to take food, particularly things that don’t need refrigeration and aren’t too heavy.
 
Since the Marea del Portillo hotel will not be open until mid December, I needed to sort out transportation and accommodation details, which I have been able to do with the help of some good friends in Pilón. The next steps will be buying supplies and packing!  
 
How can you help? You can support either Keith “Budgie” Davidson’s now-in-the-country aid efforts or my own going-there-soon activities. We both accept e-transfers; any help is appreciated and will be used appropriately. You can contact either of us via Facebook or email.
 
• For e-transfers to Keith, use papabudgie58@gmail.com. He will be in Cuba until mid February.
 
• To support me, use jennicacuba@gmail.com. [American friends can send checks, if the Canadian postal strike is over, or use PayPal – but please identify it as a “GIFT” for my trip, not a “donation” for Cuba, which seems to wave silly red flags.] My deadline is Dec. 1.
 
FYI – the photo at the top of this page was taken in 2009, on the morning following a very miniscule earthquake that occurred when I was staying at the Marea del Portillo resort. One of my friends from Santiago de Cuba, where they are quite familiar with quakes, called it a simple “coffee stirrer.” It was so small that most of the people at the resort slept right through it! But, my pal Wendy Oke and I were sleeping lightly, so we both woke up and, once we ascertained that the world was not ending, went for a walk on the beach. I took numerous shots of the sunrise as we talked about how I could help the local community. Well, here I am, following through on a personal vow….

XO ~ Jenny

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Post Script: 

REGARDING AFTERSHOCKS... I've been hearing about the aftershocks that have been continuing in earthquake-ravaged Granma, Cuba. I couldn't help but wonder: Is it normal to have so many? Apparently so, unfortunately. 

 

Without sliding too deeply down the rabbit hole of seismology, I found some interesting information. While there is no way to know exactly how many aftershocks there will be or when they will finally stop, they will gradually decrease and diminish in strength. 

 

There are mathematical equations and laws about the projected pattern, but nothing is definitive. Mother Earth is doing her own private dance and she's not about to let scientists peek up her skirt!

 

Here's some of what I found about aftershocks:

The number of aftershocks that occur after a significant earthquake can vary widely depending on several factors, including the magnitude of the main quake, the geological conditions of the area, and the depth of the earthquake.

 

On average, a large earthquake (magnitude 6.0 or higher) can produce dozens to hundreds of aftershocks, while smaller quakes might have fewer aftershocks...

In general:

Magnitude 5.0-5.9: Several dozen aftershocks.
Magnitude 6.0-6.9: Hundreds of aftershocks.
Magnitude 7.0 and above: Thousands of aftershocks over time.

Aftershocks can continue for days, weeks, or even months after the main event, with their frequency typically decreasing over time.

 

 

My observations of Cuba's Catch-22

Catch-22 in Cuba: TRIP REPORT for Oct/Nov 2024

Joseph Heller’s iconic novel, Catch-22, is a satirical take on the absurdity of war. Set in World War II, the title is taken from a military regulation that’s used for a wide variety of situations, particularly when there is no real solution. The term “Catch-22” has come to signify any paradoxical problem in which one is trapped by contradictory rules or conditions. In essence, it’s an absurd, no-win situation. Welcome to Cuba!
 
Cuba needs the income from tourism to provide funding for maintaining and improving the country’s infrastructure but tourists don’t want to visit if things are falling apart: Catch-22. To me, that’s the biggest, most glaring Catch-22 situation in Cuba. When you start to pick at the loose threads of the Cuban tapestry, however, you’ll find more and more knots of cyclical, insurmountable problems. If you don’t have this, you can’t fix that; if you don’t fix that, you can’t have this. Nobody wins in such endless loops of woe. 
 
At the Marea del Portillo resort, where I was booked to stay for two weeks, Catch-22 also blocks progress. Located in an isolated rural region along the southern sole of the island, it is the only resort in the entire province of Granma, one of Cuba’s most historically significant areas. Nestled in the toes of the majestic Sierra Maestra mountains, it is also magnificently scenic. The two hotels on the property have undergone extensive renovations and are ready to receive international tourists. But, the closest airport is closed right now, so people must travel via Holguín, which is about 4 hours away; transport from the nearby Manzanillo de Cuba airport is about 1.5 hours.
 
Here is the Marea del Portillo Catch-22: Sunwing (the only airline that services this resort) doesn’t want to land planes in Manzanillo if there aren’t enough tourists to warrant the cost BUT, if tourists have to travel via Holguín, they don’t want to book packages at Marea. In the past, when fuel was cheaper and Sunwing was in its heyday, they would land at Manzanillo as well as a second airport elsewhere in Cuba (Varadero, Santiago, etc.), even if Marea clients occupied only half the plane. Now, the cost of landing/taking off twice, coupled with paying airport fees at two locations, means that Sunwing is not likely to stop in Manzanillo… unless the plane is full of Marea clients. Unfortunately, as long as Sunwing forces people to go via Holguín, there won’t be enough clients to even fill a bus, let alone a plane.
 
SIDEBAR #1: How can you get around such a problem? I have an idea I want to explore but I haven’t had time to investigate it fully, so I will save that for another post. Stay tuned and, if you haven’t done so already, be sure to sign on to my email list. That way, you’ll have the information first, delivered to your inbox. And, don’t worry, I won’t spam you!
 
Meanwhile, back to my trip report… The Marea del Portillo resort has been undergoing a lot of renovation work, and it continues! It looks beautiful. While I was there, during the last week of October and the first week of November, tourists came and went, as did the electricity. Cuba is still struggling and, sadly, seems to be experiencing blow after blow. The latest, of course, was Hurricane Rafael. That storm did further damage to a weak and aging electrical grid and sent waves of outages across the entire country.
 
At Marea, as with most resorts, the generators kicked in and did their best to keep the tourists happy. However, one also has to be cognizant of the fuel supply for those vital pieces of equipment. It’s a complicated dance. When the electricity is off, the generators are turned on; but, in my observation at Marea and elsewhere, they are periodically shut down – presumably to save fuel, refuel and/or give them a rest. This usually seems to occur at night, when it’s cooler.
 
My advice for coping with the irregular power supply is to take rechargeable fans and lights. Ideally, at the end or your trip, they can become much-appreciated gifts for local friends and families you’re attached to. Solar lights and rechargers are great too! Anything and everything for dealing with a lack of electricity will be put to good use in Cuba these days.
 
SIDEBAR #2: While on the topic of gifts, let me reiterate that basic medical and health supplies are very, very much needed in Cuba right now. Acetaminophen, which is known as paracetamol in many countries, is the best choice (Tylenol is the most common brand but generic products are fine). This drug is the only fever-reducing medicine that can be taken if one contracts Dengue Fever or the Oropouche Virus, as well as being safer for most people to use as a general pain reliever. Ibuprofen may be better for muscle aches but it can increase the risk of bleeding and, therefore, should NOT be used for Dengue and Oropouche, if you're on medication for heart issues or high blood pressure, etc.
 
While staying at Marea or the Starfish resort near Holguín, where I was shipped near the end of my trip, as well as in a couple of casas particulares (Cuban B&Bs), I sometimes gave little packets of 25 or 50 acetaminophen tablets as tips. On this trip, although I was booked for two weeks at an all-inclusive resort, I wanted to visit friends in other towns, so I went on a road trip to Bayamo and Manzanillo, and I opted to stay at a B&B in Pilón for a few nights. As it turned out, the cost of round-trip transportation from the hotel to town and back was about the same as staying at my favorite rental house in Pilón (Casa de Noel +53 51270678) and having a lovely breakfast in the morning, complete with plenty of fresh fruit!
 
SIDEBAR #3: My favorite casa de renta in the village of Marea del Portillo is Casa de Bárbara, where I’ve stayed many times. Operated by Bárbara and Diomedes, whom some people will know due to the many years they worked at the resort, they have a large and lovely home. There are two separate rental units upstairs (three bedrooms in total, plus three bathrooms and two kitchens), and they’re in the process of building a ground-level dining area and a fourth bedroom with ensuite, which will be easily accessible for people with mobility issues. They can provide meals or, if guests prefer to cook for themselves, Bárbara will help them acquire any necessary foodstuffs. You can contact her by phone (+53 51721193) or via Facebook – look for the group (not the page) called “Casa de Bárbara - Marea del Portillo, Cuba.”
 
On this trip, fresh fruit was noticeably absent from the Marea del Portillo resort. Outside of the resort, there were bananas and some other things, but it wasn’t the right season for a lot of variety. At the Starfish, we were provided with papaya at every meal, as part of a small buffet they had set up. It typically had sliced meat, cheese, bread and olives, the latter of which seemed an odd option for breakfast! Starfish food, in general, was nicely presented and, at first, I thought it was on par with Marea. However, I guess I was just lucky on my initial entreé selection: fish. Many of the other meat dishes were rather tough.
 
Both resorts primarily offered a la carte service, since there weren’t enough guests to justify a full buffet. It would have been a waste of food. Marea’s food and service, in general, were far superior to what I experienced at Starfish. And, when I mention service, I’m not just thinking about the dining room. On the departure day, when there were close to a dozen clients leaving, there were no porters to help us haul our luggage to the lobby. As well, since the Sunwing rep was not present, information was not readily available and sometimes contradictory.
 
Apparently, that resort had just opened a few weeks earlier. The smallish Starfish Guardalavaca property is part of what had been the sprawling Club Amigo Atlanticó. In my opinion, they weren’t really ready. In another week or two, they should have a second restaurant/bar open and the pool will likely be full. Giving staff a bit more training in customer service would also be helpful.
 
At Marea del Portillo, on the other hand, the service in all departments is top notch. They are well trained and they also seem to genuinely care. And, with respect to the food, I have a lot of respect for the chefs at Marea. They are providing excellent meals, despite their limited resources. It’s quite unfortunate that the government has such strict regulations about purchasing food supplies.
 
As I mentioned in a previous trip report, resorts are not allowed to buy produce from local farmers without a contract and, when a contract is in place, vendors are paid via direct deposits made to the bank in Pilón. But, that little bank often runs out of pesos and payments for contracts or wages are frequently delayed. Converting payments into plastic money (MLC credit cards) is not a good option for every person or situation. So, agricultural producers, understandably, are not interested in signing up for contacts with resorts; they just want to be handed cash. This may not quite be a Catch-22 situation but it’s close!
 
While I was writing this earlier today, Nov. 10, the Granma province was hit by series of earthquakes, perhaps as many as four, measuring up to a magnitude of 6.8. The Pilón and Marea del Portillo area seem to have sustained the most damage, according to the reports I’ve been reading and news I’ve heard from people in that region. Some homes have been destroyed and at least one person died from a heart attack that may have been related to the stress of the situation.
 
After the ongoing blackouts and the recent hurricanes (Oscar earlier and Rafael a few days ago), this seems like too much to bear. But, I know the Cuban people are strong and resilient. They will survive. And, I will not give up on doing what I can to help and support them. My December trip has been booked since early October and I do not intend to cancel.
 
I’m posting this report now, without all the usual photos, because I want you to have my first-hand account and honest information as quickly as possible. The Marea del Portillo hotel had to close on Nov. 6 but they intend to reopen in a week or so. The closure will allow time to reconfigure the facility’s three generators so they’ll function more efficiently and, thus, assure guests of more reliable power and water supplies, whenever the national grid in not providing electricity. They will do everything they can to improve the resort’s services, to encourage tourism and keep the people of the community working.
 
That, to me, is the bottom line. I may not agree with all the changes that have been made at the resort in the past year but it is still operating and people still have jobs, despite all the obstacles. That is no small feat. I commend their efforts!

XO ~ Jenny

TRIP REPORT (Part 2): When I went rogue in Cuba... and was powerless

After a week at the resort in Cuba, I moved out (as planned!)

At the end of a wonderful, relaxing week at the lovely and well-appointed Marea del Portillo Resort, I moved off campus, one could say. Or, as I like to say, I went rogue! But, it wasn’t a “girl’s gone wild” type of thing; it was a carefully planned shift in lifestyle. Well, it was planned as carefully as one can plan anything in Cuba these days! When not staying at a resort, plans must be flexible and should always include a willingness to go with the flow.

During the off-resort flow of my March trip to Cuba, I spent two weeks at the home of an amiga in Pilón. Her son was away at university, so I took over his room and was very graciously taken care of by my host and other friends. But, in the small town that is less than 15 km away from the resort, life is quite different from a tourist compound. Frequent power outages were the biggest challenge, as they continue to be in most parts of the country. The resort is on a different part of the local electrical grid, so their supply is more consistent.
 
While I was in Pilón, the power generally came and went at intervals of roughly 5-6 hours at a stretch. However, the times of outage were not according to a set schedule; they were maddeningly and inexplicably variable. At some points, the electricity was off for as much as 10-12 hours. Over all, during that two-week period, the power was off more than it was on.

The unpredictability was (and is) extremely frustrating and makes everything more difficult. It can create cascading problems since many daily tasks require electricity, both at home and at work, from charging one’s phone to cooking. There’s an ever-present concern that the food in one’s fridge or freezer will go bad. And, it's hard to sleep when the power's off, the heat rises and the mosquitoes are hungry.

Food itself has become increasingly pricey and availability is often dicey. While in Pilón though, I did enjoy some nice fresh lettuce, thanks to a friend who raises it – for the reason why he won’t sell it to the resort, see Part 1 of my TRIP REPORT. As well, I dined on a variety of seafood, from fish to lobster and cobo (a fist-sized shellfish also called conch or sea snail), along with a little chicken or other meat, including some I had brought from Canada. Pork is no longer ever-present in Cuban households, and it is considered a special treat when it appears on a table.
 
People have become necessarily creative when it comes to cooking. My host likes to say she “invents” solutions to cooking or other problems, and she’s a very good inventor! Given the randomness of the electrical supply and the unavailability of gas for cooking, she sometimes made do with an alcohol-based fuel. Many people use wood or charcoal to cook, but the latter has become a bit expensive.

An article I read recently says that Cuban pork production fell by 91% in the past few years, going from 149,400 tons in 2018 to only 13,300 in 2023. Similarly, rice production declined from 273,800 tons to 27,900, which is a drop of 90%. That means more rice than ever must be imported, since it is an essential part of the national diet. Paying for imported products of any kind, however, is increasingly difficult for the Cuban government.
 
Meanwhile, the people struggle on, inventing as best they can. Although they didn’t originate in Cuba, I was very glad for inventions like rechargeable fans, lights and battery packs! If you’re planning a trip to Cuba, I would encourage you to take solar lights and fans that can be recharged when the power is on – as well as basic medicine cabinet supplies (especially acetaminophen and ibuprofen) and any types of protein you can fit into your luggage. Cured and canned meats are “kosher,” according to current customs regulations. To cut down on weight, I also took tuna that I had dehydrated.
 
On a few occasions, I was able to take my friends out for meals at private restaurants like “Kocha’s Place,” which is a few blocks away from Pilón’s main square. You can find it on Google maps. Since Kocha had supplied his family’s café/bar with a generator, they could serve hot food when the power was off… as long as there was fuel to run it, of course.  

Fuel was and is a huge problem in Cuba. Fuel is needed to generate the majority of the country’s electricity; solar and wind power are nominal. Gas or diesel fuel is vital for vehicles, of course, which means that both private and public transportation often stalls. More and more people in Pilón seem to be using electric motorcycles/scooters or e-bikes, even though recharging is an issue. Horse carts are busy these days! I did a lot of biking; I’m on the Cuban fitness plan.
 
For my final week in Cuba, I planned to attend the annual book fair in Bayamo, which is about 145 km from Pilón. A small bus had been arranged for attendees from more distant towns and, since I was included on the passenger list as a guest of one of the local writers, I felt confident that I would have transportation. I did, but it was not without a hitch or two!
 
On the day we were supposed to meet our “Diana,” the brand name of that type of little bus, I loaded my luggage into a horse cart and went to the designated meeting place, close to the town’s only gas station, at the appointed hour of 8 a.m. I seated myself on a nice rock beside the road and waited. My travelling companion arrived poetically late, since he had to walk from his home in a more distant part of town, carrying his assorted bags. We began to wait, and wait, and wait.
 
As the morning bled into afternoon, ZZ Top’s classic song, “Waitin’ For the Bus,” was playing on endless loop in my mind. We eventually received word that the bus was on its way from Bayamo to pick us up, but progress was slow because it had to make a lot of stops. By this time, we had shifted our butts to a bench in the yard of an adjacent home, where a bathroom was also available. Then it started to rain. 

Since we knew the route the bus would be taking, a plan was hatched for a rendezvous. Just as the rain began to pelt down more heavily, we climbed aboard a truck-bus that would take us over the mountain to Sevilla, where Diana would be waiting. Fortunately, this particular truck had a covered back, so nobody got completely soaked! Another woman and I were given the princess seats in the cab with the driver. By the time we chugged into Sevilla, the rain had stopped.
 
Once aboard the Diana bus with the other authors, we settled in for a long ride – protracted by the requirement to pick up anyone and everyone who was waiting at a bus stop, and to let them off wherever necessary. That’s how it goes in Cuba. If a bus or truck isn’t full, the doors will be opened for people needing transportation.

Eventually, we made it to Bayamo and pulled into a gas station but, after refuelling, Diana remained immobile. Another problem had arisen – the location of my casa particular (Cuban B&B) was not conducive to bus traffic. Little Diana was too big to navigate the narrow street where I would be staying. After some discussion, my friend and I agreed to jump off at the nearest intersection and haul our luggage the half-block to the casa. Thank goodness for suitcases with sturdy wheels!  

All told, the trip from Pilón to our destination took about 12 hours. We had missed the opening ceremony of the book fair and I was too exhausted to attend the evening’s scheduled cocktail party. I just wanted to have a hot shower and something to eat. A tin of meat and some crackers provided the necessary sustenance but the shower, to me, was more delicious than the food!
 
While in Pilón, I had not been able to take a long, hot shower, due to the electricity woes. The primary water tank for my friend’s apartment is located on the roof of the building and, in that town, the municipal water supply is only turned on every three days. Unfortunately, for the entire two weeks I was there, the timing didn’t jive for us to have water and electricity simultaneously. Therefore, we madly rationed water, since we didn’t really know how much remained in the rooftop tank.

On the day I left town, my friend reported that she finally had both water and power at the same time, which meant she was able to use her electric pump to refill the tank. I was greatly relieved to learn that she could finally do laundry, have a longer shower and not have to worry so much.

Once ensconced in Bayamo, all went remarkably well. The casa was located near the heart of town, so it was an easy walk to most of the main book fair activities and, in that quadrant, the electricity supply was more stable. In fact, there was barely a hiccup in power that week, which was nice. In addition to hot showers, I quite enjoyed hanging out with the literati of Granma and playing tourist in the province’s capital. 

I’ve been to the book fair a couple of times but, usually, I haven’t been able to do much sightseeing. This year, I stayed in Bayamo for a few days after the fair because it made more logistical sense to travel directly to Holguin for my flight home rather taking a slow bus back to Pilón and, then, an expensive taxi to the airport. In case you don't have a map in front of you (or in your head), the HOG airport is about an hour on the opposite side of Bayamo from Pilón. 

Since I had more leisure time on this trip, I was finally able to go to the wax museum in it’s new location on the city’s charming pedestrian street. Believe it or not, this is the only wax museum in all of Cuba! Although the bird exhibit, which I had fondly recalled from a previous tour, was being refurbished, the other displays have been updated and expanded. It’s certainly worth a visit, if you’re in town.

I could wax philosophical about Cuba’s current woes but, at this point, I think it’s time to sign off. I’ve given you plenty to read for now!
 
Keep smiling,
Jenny

BONUS PHOTOS!!!

 

 

TRIP REPORT (Part 1): I had a relaxing week with friends at Marea del Portillo!

BEACHRISE: A lovely sunrise from the Marea del Portillo beach.

As you may know, I'm not really adventure averse...

While I was in Cuba in March, things were a little different than they had been on past trips. The country is struggling. There are fuel and food shortages, frequent blackouts and a variety of associated challenges. I knew things might be difficult so, like a good scout, I did what I could to prepare in advance – such as always having water purification tablets and T.P with me, as well as a "roll-with-it" mindset and an openness to adventure!

My first week in Cuba was NOT an adventure, though, because I was at my favorite little resort, Marea del Portillo, on the island's southern sole. I'd stayed in the hilltop Farallón del Caribe Hotel on my last trip; thus, I opted for the beach-level Marea del Portillo Hotel this time. Both hotels at this resort are lovely! It was great to see people I've known for years – among the staff as well as my fellow travelers – and to make some new friends too.

It was also nice to see how beautifully the resort is being renovated. A lot of updating and freshening up has been done and more projects are in the works. Construction is a challenge in Cuba right now, though, due to the lack of supplies and their escalating cost, when they are available. Therefore, it will take some time for all the proposed upgrades to be completed. Be patient!

BEAUTIFUL: The updated Marea Hotel now features a sweet suite!

One thing I look forward to is the installation of an elevator in the Farallón hotel, which has sweeping views of the peaceful Marea del Portillo Bay and the majestic Sierra Maestra Mountains. I've been told this will be a "scenic" elevator and, therefore, I'm guessing it will replace the glassed stairwell at the east end of the building. That pending project will likely take the most time to accomplish. Perhaps in a year or two, we'll no longer have to hike up the stairs if we have rooms on the fourth floor of the Farallón... but I may do it anyway, just for the exercise! (I consider Cuba to be my fitness club and, with that in mind, I really should visit more often!)

Before we're able to take photos from the pinnacle of the elevator, we will be able to enjoy the facilities in the new structures going up between the two hotels. I've heard varying ideas about what exactly these buildings will contain, which suggests that plans are somewhat in flux. I believe there will be some sort of snackbar and a gym or spa, but I'm not sure what equipment or services will ultimately be available. Massage? Probably. Aroma therapy? Perhaps. Tattoos? Maybe. Sauna? I hope not! (I made that last one up; I'm admitting it because I don't want to start a rumor.) We'll have to wait and see.

This between-hotels site will also serve as a new access point for the beach. People will be able to jump on the shuttle at the Farallón, coast down the hill and get off at the new snackbar/spa/whatever building, and go directly to the beach without traipsing through the Marea hotel lobby. I think that will be much better! I'm assuming that baños and showers will be installed at convenient locations adjacent to this new beach access spot. I believe there are already some at the dive shop but more may be in the works. 

IN THE WORKS: This mid-way point between hotels will provide easy beach access.

It's hard to know what will be accomplished this summer at the resort, just as it's hard to know what food/beverages will or will not be available at any given time. When I was there in early March, the food selection was a bit limited but we certainly didn't go hungry! Every buffet tray had something in it, even if the contents were, in essence, a variation on the theme. Sausage and cabbage were definitely put to good use, but we also had a selection of other things throughout the week. My favorite meal was the lobster dinner cruise!

While there, I learned why some food items seem to be in short supply at the resort but are readily available elsewhere. Lettuce, for example, was noticeably absent from the resort buffet most of the week. However, I knew it was being grown in the nearby Marea del Portillo village. I did my best to connect the dots but, in the end, I couldn't do it.

I found out that, in order to buy local produce, the resort is required by the government to have a contract in place with the farmer. Payments would eventually be sent to the farmer's bank account, roughly once a month. The nearest bank is about 15 km away and, based on what I've heard from several sources, it does not always have enough cash on hand to supply withdrawal requests. People can have their government-issued payments applied to credit cards, but that limits them to shopping at government-operated stores where plastic is accepted. Some people prefer cash, since that's what they need for many aspects of daily life. If you want lettuce, you need money, honey!

The farmer with the beautiful field of organic greens, just 2 km from the resort, would be happy for his produce to be featured on the buffet. But, quite understandably, he wants to be paid in the national currency at the time of purchase. While I was at the resort for my first week, my meals were bereft of lettuce but, later, a friend hooked me up...after I went rogue! (The next part of my March trip was definitely more adventuresome – stay tuned.)

Meanwhile, this is what you need to know: The Marea del Portillo Resort IS OPEN!!! The director has unequivocally stated that the resort will continue to operate year round. If you want to stay there this summer, you can book rooms through the Cubanacan website or you can pay with a credit card at the desk when you arrive (remember, the card must not be linked to an American bank). For now, the Farallón del Caribe Hotel is the focus, I've been informed. 

FARALLON: The lower photos were taken while on the resort's lobster dinner cruise.

Sunwing is only offering flights via the Holguin airport, but transportation can be arranged; if you have a group of 6-10, the shared cost is reasonable. The director says they are working on reestablishing operation with Sunwing, but there are no specific details at this time. Previously, he had said he hoped flights would resume to Manzanillo in June but... we'll see.

I did a little checking and found that the Cubanacan Hoteles website seems to work a little better for booking than the Cubanacan Grupo site and, oddly, is a couple of bucks cheaper in most cases. It can be a challenge to find Club Amigo Marea del Portillo; you may have better luck searching for "Granma" as a destination. The Hoteles site also provides an email address for the resort: reservas@marea.tur.cu. You could try making a reservation that way and, presumably, pay when you arrive. Here's a link I used in my tests: https://reservations.cubanacanhoteles.com/en/. Scroll down to the bottom to find Granma. Interestingly, I noticed several photos of Cayo Blanco on the site!

I'm not sure if the resort will be able to provide transportation from the Holguin airport, but I think they're trying to put something together. However, another option to consider is Proyecto Guacayanabo, a group of entrepreneurs based in Manzanillo. They can provide transportation tailored to your group; prices vary depending on the size of the vehicle required. You can contact them by email (proyectoguacanayabo@gmail.com) or connect with their manager, José Ortiz Benet on Facebook.  

Anyway, according to Abel Carcur, director general of the Marea del Portillo Resort, the bottom line is this: "The resort is open 365 days per year." 

XO, Jenny 

KEEP SMILING: I enjoyed hanging out with friends at the Farallón Hotel's poolside bar! On the right, I'm with José Ortiz Benet of Proyecto Guacanayabo at the Holguin Airport.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Easter greetings to everyone!

 

Marea del Portillo, here I come... again!

 

Yes, I will soon be returning to Marea del Portillo, Cuba, again. I was there when the resort finally reopened on Dec. 6, after too many years, and I want to return before flights to/from Manzanillo end for the 2023-24 season.

I thought I'd timed my visit to occur while this tourism season was still going strong. When I planned my trip, flights were available to the middle of April 2024. However, Sunwing abruptly decided to truncate the season and end flights to/from Manzanillo de Cuba in mid March instead. Dec. 6 to March 20 is a VERY short season!

Without the Sunwing flights from Toronto and Montreal, the entire Manzanillo airport will close. The next nearest Cuban airport is in Holguin, which is about 4 hours away from the Marea/Pilón area. It is a bit of a drive but there are a lot of interesting things to see along the way! Sometimes, when I've flown via Holguin, I've stopped in Manzanillo or Bayamo and, on occasion, stayed overnight in Holguin. All three of those cities are interesting to visit.

After Sunwing pulled the plug on the more convenient Manzanillo flights, the resort management team began exploring other transportation options. They had hoped to be able to provide a package that would include the airport transfer without adding to the cost. That, unfortunately, has not yet proven possible. At this point, they're still awaiting answers following a recent meeting in Bayamo with Sunwing representatives.

Sunwing may not seem to care about this resort and the communities it serves – I mean both the local community and the community of tourists – but the resort managers definitely DO care. Abel Carcur, Yancel Pérez and Ñusta Arévalo want to keep this resort open beyond March 20, and they are trying very hard to find a viable solution. Both Yancel and Ñusta live in the area and have worked at the Marea del Portillo for quite some time. Abel is new to the resort but not new to the tourism business, nor to Cuba, although he's actually from Spain.

As well as working in the tourism industry in different capacities around the world, Abel Carcur also had a restaurant in his hometown of Lugo, Spain.

Last year, some of you may have heard that a Spanish company was taking over the resort. I think that rumor may have arisen because Abel came from Spain to tour the facility; it was really just one Spanish guy who was hired by Blue Diamond to be the general manager. Rumors also circulated that the resort was being sold. Well, it was sort of a shell game because Sunwing owns Blue Diamond. They are rebranding it, not selling it... at least, not yet.

Abel has apparently been given a year to turn things around financially but I have not been able to find out if that "year" begins next season (Winter 2024-25) or if has already started. If the clock is now ticking for Abel, then Sunwing should not have cut him off at the knees by stopping flights to Manzanillo earlier than originally scheduled.

When I chatted with Abel in December, he explained that many changes were pending, including the creation of two separate resorts on the same property. Instead of the Marea del Portillo hotel and the Farallón del Caribe hotel being under one big umbrella (Club Amigo Marea del Portillo), each of the hotels would be marketed separately and would cater to different clienteles. Then, if the Marea hotel's financial picture did not improve, it would be sold and Sunwing would operate only the Farallón.

However, I found it quite interesting to learn that Sunwing was not footing the bill for all the renovation work that has been and is being done at the facility. Abel said that, in his experience, the amount of money being pumped into the resort is unprecedented. Since the Cubanacan group actually owns the place (Sunwing is essentially a property manager), it would seem that they want to keep this entire resort alive – at least two of three hotels, that is. I have no idea about the future of the third hotel, Punta Piedra, which is located a few kms to the west, but I hope it doesn't fall into disrepair.

So, if Sunwing sells off the Marea hotel, would Cubanacan step in and operate it? Perhaps. Could another international airline be found to fly into Manzanillo. Maybe. At this point, I'm just speculating! Let's all sing together: "Quizás, quizás, quizás...." 

Blue Diamond has dual-personality, two-hotel resorts under the "Resonance" banner, which is the current plan for Marea del Portillo/Farallón del Caribe.

Meanwhile, let's talk about what could happen after March 20. The resort could simply close. Or, it could be opened on weekends only for day use (no overnight accommodation). OR, in a scenario I want to be optimistic about, it could stay open and provide transportation from/to Holguin for clients with air/hotel vacation packages (Sunwing or another company). In this case, people could also book accommodation autonomously – no matter where they were traveling from or what airline they might be using. If a group arrived together, a Manzanillo-based company called Proyecto Guacanayabo could adeptly supply shuttle service.

Although other individuals can provide transportation, Proyecto Guacanayabo seems to be the best option for groups because they have access to numerous vans and other larger vehicles. And, for those who like the classics, they have a big yellow truck with bus-style seats at their disposal. It can comfortably carry 10-12 people and, since it has a large roof rack, luggage can go on top instead of being crammed inside, which must be done with many vans.

Also, because their business includes guided tours to other parts of Cuba and event organization, they would have the chops to put together a nice mini-tour from Holguin to Marea del Portillo. Since Manzanillo is about halfway, it would be a great place to stop for a break that could include a meal and music, as well as beverages and baños, and, perhaps, a quick drive along the city's sculpture-studded malecón.

I realize that a 226-km drive from plane to bed is not ideal or, for those with certain health issues, even possible. Nonetheless, I would encourage you to keep an open mind about this idea and not negate it out of hand. Certainly, having an unexpected 4-hour bus ride is not nice but this would be organized and announced in advance. IF this mini-tour option can be worked out, I think it would be fun!

Let's stay positive and keep supporting Marea del Portillo as much as we can! On Feb. 28, I will again be heading for my favorite little resort, my second home and my Cuban cottage, as some folks call it. I will try to post a trip report by Easter... if I make it home and have time by then! While I'm there, I'll do my best to provide what updates I can about the resort and its future. 

Keep smiling,
Jenny

This awesome vintage vehicle, equipped with modern, padded bus seats, can carry 12 people.

 

MY DEC. 6 MAREA TRIP REPORT: Not perfect but perfectly fine!

2023 MAREA DEL PORTILLO TRIP REPORT:
It wasn't perfect but it was perfectly fine!

TORONTO, DEC. 6, 2023, 6:15 A.M.
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The first flight from Canada to Manzanillo de Cuba was loaded and ready to roll down the Pearson airport runway when the pilot introduced himself on the intercom and informed us that we were overweight. Okay, he didn't mean that we, the people, were overweight; he meant the plane was overloaded.

The solution was to unload everyone/thing and bring in a newer plane with a larger payload capacity – a bigger belly, in other words. This took about 4.5 hours and meant that the first flight to arrive in Manzanillo came from Montreal. Because of the delay, however, the Dec. 6 Toronto passengers are entitled to compensation in the form of a $125 CAD monetary refund or a $225 voucher. [To my Dec. 6 clients: Please check your email for instructions on how to submit a claim, if you haven't done so already.]

Rumors and speculation circulated as to why the plane was overweight. Was somebody just bad at math? Did a lot of people show up with extra luggage that hadn't been booked in advance? Although Sunwing now seems to be following the WestJet protocol of not weighing carry-on bags, in my observation, I don't think that was the cause. The delay was annoying but, in the end, it was a minor hiccup and, happily, I have a voucher for my next trip!

Upon our eventual arrival at the Manzanillo airport, we were greeted with great hoopla! There were musicians, dancers, stilt walkers, entertainers and TV crews – the return of Sunwing flights to the province made the national news in Cuba. The reopening of Club Amigo Marea del Portillo was truly a BIG deal. After a surprisingly fast and smooth bus ride to the resort, the celebration continued, complete with music, welcome cocktails, many hugs and face-splitting smiles!

The 2nd hiccup was due to the ongoing renovations. Part of the Marea section is still under construction and that hotel was not quite ready for occupancy on Dec. 6. Those who had been booked in the beach-level hotel had their accommodation upgraded to cabañas or Superior rooms in the Farallón hotel. Although the Farallón was absolutely gorgeous and the view is incredible, not everyone was pleased; some people really wanted to be in the Marea section, no matter what.

Those with mobility issues were given rooms on the Farallón's lobby level (2nd floor). Food was available at the newly expanded snack bar near the pool, as well as in the á la carte restaurant. If required, meals could be brought down from the buffet for those who can't manage stairs, I'd been assured in advance. Future plans for the resort include the installation of a "scenic elevator," according to the incoming manager, Abel Carcur. No timeline for this has been given but, judging by how quickly he seems to get other things accomplished, I would guess it will happen sooner rather than later. We'll see!

Anyway, as the days clicked by, people were moved into the Marea hotel just as soon as room renos were finished – if they wanted to move! One couple in my group, who had booked a full month, ended up in the Farallón instead of their usual Marea hotel room and, although they could have moved down the hill, they opted to remain where they were. I think more than a few people will choose the Farallón in the future!

By the second week, the main Marea dining room was ready for use as the venue for the Repeaters' Dinner. Work continues to be done in that section as fast as possible, but there's a lot to do. One of the biggest parts of the overall project is the construction of a floor atop the á la carte restaurant, dwarfing the stage. This will be a disco! In fact, another change that's afoot, once Blue Diamond fully takes over, is to make the Marea section into a music and party zone. The Farallón will become the more sedate and upscale hotel of the two. [I hope to be able to provide more details about these pending changes later.] 

Hiccup #3 pertained to WiFi. At first, people were told they would need to pay for WiFi and different prices were given. The most commonly quoted rate was $0.21 USD/hour, which needed to be paid with a Canadian credit card. Seriously! However, Sunwing's website clearly stated that WiFi was free throughout all their resorts in Cuba. Naturally, this was brought to the attention of Elena, the onsite Sunwing rep., as well as the management team. Abel quickly rectified the situation. In short order, WiFi was free and refunds were being offered to people who had already paid. [NOTE: This service is provided in blocks of 3-5 hours and, if you leave it "on," you will quickly burn through the allotment and have to go back to the lobby desk to have another block of time activated. I would recommend flipping your internet access "off" or switching to airplane mode when not using it.] Food is another thing people are always concerned about, of course. On the first night, we were served an elegant meal by the Farallón pool, complete with artfully arranged lobster and steak entrées. Throughout the remainder of my two-week stay, I ate shrimp, fish, chicken, pork and beef. And yes, I had some bacon for breakfast! Overall, I would say they were not lacking in meat. There were sufficient vegetables and fruit, too, but not as much variety as one may prefer. For example, leafy greens were rarely available but, if you like beets, you'll be pleased.

Sometimes, when I arrived late to the buffet, I discovered sausage and cabbage in several of the covered trays; I suspect they ran out of other things and didn't want the trays to be empty. They temporarily ran out of a few key items, such as butter, but there was certainly no shortage of delectable desserts, pastries and bread. The person or team in charge of baking is doing a top-notch job. And, for those who will want to know, the toaster was working beautifully. All in all, I never left the table hungry!

What haven't I covered yet? Entertainment! The music is excellent, as always, and most of the musicians will be familiar to anyone who's visited this resort before. Quite a few members of the animation team have returned and they've been joined by some new folks, all of whom are working hard to keep everyone highly entertained. Most of dancers are new to the resort, and they're very talented. Also new is an aquatic ballet team from Bayamo instead of Santiago, as before. Since they don't have so far to travel, they are able to present water shows every week, which is delightful! 

I would be remiss if I didn't at least briefly mention the beach, Cayo Blanco and other excursions. The beach in front of the hotels is being rehabilitated. Mother Nature apparently decided to move most of the sand to one big pile at the east end of the beach, effectively closing the river's mouth. Workers are cleaning the beach daily and hauling loads of sand back to where the humans would prefer to have it. More palapas and other structures for shade are being built, as well as a new beach bar below the Farallón. Regarding excursions, in my view, the land-based tours are reasonably priced, given the current cost of fuel in Cuba. In December, most people seemed to be going on excursions by "Jeep" rather than bus and, in that scenario, the driver serves as guide. On the sign you'll see five different options but, if you're interested in going somewhere else, I would encourage you to ask – it may be possible to customize a tour!

I wasn't able to take a ride on the resort's fancy new boat during my Dec. 6-20 stay but it looks nice. The general consensus seems to be that the rates for a day at Cayo Blanco and the Sunset Cruise are a bit high; keep in mind that all prices are in USD and must be paid with a credit card. Interestingly, during the first week, Cayo Blanco cost $85 but, by the second week, it had gone up to $90. The Sunset Cruise increased by $1 from one week to the next. Perhaps they'll lower the rates later! 

 

On a related note, I found out during my second week that people can now buy a pre-loaded Bandec credit card at the bank kiosk in the Manzanillo de Cuba airport. That's important to know if you only have credit cards linked to U.S. banks. So, American tourists who want to visit Cuba can use their greenbacks to buy these Bandec cards, which can then be used for excursions and shopping at government stores, including the resort's little tienda.

Oh, yes, that reminds me... you can pay with cash at the craft market that has been set up near the round-about at the resort entrance. Most vendors will accept either USD or CAD. In the future, a more permanent craft market will be built along the road between the two hotels, Abel has told me. As well, in that same stretch of road (west of the dive shop), a new ranchon will soon be ready for use and, hot on it's heels, a spa will be constructed next door. The spa will include massage and aromatherapy services and, possibly, a tattoo studio. It will be fun to see how all these excellent plans evolve!

One final "hot tip" for those who want to book a special room at the Marea hotel in the coming year: ask about room #127. It will have a private Jacuzzi-style bath adjacent to the back door! Woohoo!

Well, I think this has become a pretty comprehensive trip report! There are a few rumors floating around about other pending changes at our beloved second home and, when I have confirmation of the details, I'll let you know.

Bye for now!
~ Jenny